After two action-packed days in Delhi, a day trip to see the Taj Mahal in Agra, and three days exploring Chiang Mai, Candace, and I made our way to Hanoi, Vietnam to continue our Southeast Asian adventure.
The city of Hanoi is vibrant, bustling, and full of history, with ancient temples and French colonial buildings dotting its Old Quarter. It’s also a street food paradise and offers lots of interesting and unique experiences. Best of all, Hanoi is safe and budget-friendly for tourists. What more could you ask for?
The rest of this post focuses on our time in Hanoi, including how we got to Hanoi, where we stayed in Hanoi, the restaurants we tried here, etc. I’ve also included our full 3-day Hanoi itinerary plus a bonus evening in Hanoi after our travel day. Now, let’s dive in!
*P.S. this post contains some affiliate links. At no additional cost to you, we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase.
A Quick Intro to Hanoi
Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam, Vietnam’s second-largest city (after Ho Chi Minh City), and one of Southeast Asia’s most fascinating destinations.
The city has been a center of power since 1010, when Emperor Lý Thái Tổ established it as Thăng Long, i.e. “Ascending Dragon”. Fun fact: we discovered during our overnight cruise to Bai Tu Long Bay that dragons are popular in Vietnamese culture and are revered as a symbol of the nation’s identity.
In the 19th century, when the French colonized Vietnam, they left behind some beautiful colonial architecture, ranging from brightly colored, yellow buildings and old villas to tree-lined boulevards, as well as a love for coffee and baguettes.
These days, the ancient city has been reinvigorated with modern cafés and watering holes, world-class restaurants, eclectic art galleries, and more.
Tips for Visiting Hanoi
Here are a few tips to keep in mind when visiting Hanoi. These definitely came in handy during our time in Hanoi, and I hope they’ll be useful for yours too.
- When crossing the streets, walk slowly and confidently, and motorbikes will go around you. Traffic is non-stop here, so you have to just go for it. Otherwise, you may be waiting around all day to cross the street!
- The currency in Hanoi is the Vietnamese Dong (VND). Be sure to get some cash out from an ATM when you arrive. Many places prefer cash, but some larger establishments accept credit and debit cards.
- Vendors expect you to bargain, so don’t be shy! Of course, you should always be polite when doing so, but vendors often inflate prices to account for this.
- Unfortunately, pickpocketing is an issue in many major cities, and Hanoi is no exception. Always be cautious, especially in crowded areas, and carry a cross-body purse, money belt, RFID blocking wallet, or fanny pack to protect your belongings.
Vietnam Visa Requirements
A Vietnamese visa is required to enter the country, and you’ll want to take care of this in advance if possible. This is very important, so I’ve dedicated an entire section to share our experience.
We purchased our e-Visas through the Vietnam Immigration Department, and the process was 100% online. Give yourself a few weeks for processing time, and don’t forget to print it out after you’re approved. Note that a visa on arrival is available for air travel only.
Though we purchased ours in advance, when we arrived at the Chiang Mai International Airport, it became clear that Candace’s Vietnam visa was not “valid”. Although her visa had been approved online, she was unable to print it, and a printed copy was required to board our plane in Chiang Mai. We both had tried several times before the trip using various devices and browsers but had no luck. And, to our surprise, our airline representative wasn’t able to print it either.
Unfortunately, in our experience, if there’s an issue with your visa, it’s difficult, if not impossible, to resolve it from home. Candace tried calling and emailing the Vietnam Immigration Department before our trip and never received a response. And, she wasn’t able to apply for another visa because hers was technically already approved/in processing. This is something I don’t really have great advice for, but it’s worth mentioning. Hopefully no one else has to go through this stressful experience!
Luckily, we were blessed with the most wonderful AirAsia representative who called the Vietnam Embassy/Immigration Office to explain the situation. When we arrived at the Noi Bai International Airport, we went directly to the visa help desk where they handed Candace her printed visa—phew!
A Broad Recommendation: If possible, try to sort out your visa before arriving at the airport. We flew the same airline on another leg of our trip, and the representatives were not nearly as kind and understanding as they were in Chiang Mai.
How to Get to Hanoi
We took an afternoon flight from the Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX) to the Noi Bai International Airport (HAN). The flight was around 1.5 hours, and from the Hanoi airport, it was another 40 minutes or so drive to our hotel.
We pre-arranged transportation through our hotel, Hanoi Morning Hotel, which made getting from the Hanoi airport to the Hanoi city center seamless.
Hanoi Transportation
Once you’re in Hanoi, there are lots of options for getting around, like taxis, buses, and motorbikes. Though we mainly walked around Hanoi, we also used the Grab app (Vietnam’s version of Uber) once or twice. Cyclo rides are also a fun way to get around the city, but be sure to negotiate prices beforehand.
A Broad Recommendation: Taxi scams are common in Hanoi. Stick to the Grab app or reputable taxi companies like Mai Linh or Vinasun if you can.
If you’re planning to travel outside of the city center, the Reunification Express line has trains that go to many major destinations, including Lao Cai (Sapa) and Dong Hoi (Phong Nha). Hanoi also has an extensive bus network, which generally offers low-cost fares.
As an alternative, you may want to try one of Hanoi’s themed sightseeing tours. There are food tours, women-led sightseeing tours, motorbike tours, Vespa tours, bicycle tours, etc. Many of these offer transportation and can be a fun and social way to see the city!
Where to Stay in Hanoi
We stayed at Hanoi Morning Hotel, a 4-star hotel situated in the Hanoi city center, near Hoan Kiem Lake. Though it wasn’t the fanciest place we’ve ever stayed, our room was only $28 USD per night, so we couldn’t complain.
When we first walked in, we noticed that the air conditioning was either broken or non-existent in the hallways and the elevator, but when we got to our room, it was working just fine.
Our room had two twin beds, a small bathroom, and a TV, which is really all we needed.
Hanoi Morning Hotel offers 24 hour check-in and a concierge service (which we took advantage of to arrange transportation to the airport on our last day in Hanoi), in addition to complimentary breakfast and free Wi-Fi. The staff was very kind and accommodating, and the location was perfect for us. Plus, we had a pretty neat view from our room too!
Hanoi, Vietnam Map
For a quick reference, here’s a map of all of the places we visited in Hanoi, Vietnam. Now, let’s get into how we spent three days in Hanoi, plus our bonus night in Hanoi.
Day 1 in Hanoi, Vietnam
After we were all checked into our Hanoi hotel, we stepped outside and began exploring right away. We were close to some of the most popular Hanoi attractions and landmarks, like St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the Water Puppet Theater, and the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long, but first, we needed some food!
Dinner at Essence Restaurant
We searched for a restaurant with air conditioning and found a cute spot inside the AIRA Boutique Hanoi Hotel & Spa (formerly the Essence Hotel Hanoi).
The renowned Essence Restaurant is situated on the 9th floor and offers a fusion of authentic Vietnamese cuisine, alongside a stunning view of the city. And, this was the perfect way to kick off our time in Hanoi!
The service was exceptional, and I enjoyed my meal. Unfortunately, Candace didn’t love hers (she thought she was ordering something different than she did), but our waitress took her entire meal off our bill, without us even asking.
She also wrote us the sweetest note and gave us a list of places to check out during our trip, which we felt was just above and beyond!
Drinks at Old Hanoi Restaurant
After dinner, we decided to walk around Hanoi’s Old Quarter looking for drink deals, when we stumbled upon the Old Hanoi Restaurant.
Situated in an old villa boasting French architecture and a large, ancient fig tree, the Old Hanoi Restaurant offers authentic Vietnamese dishes with fresh ingredients, and of course, great drink deals, which is the reason we stopped here!
Candace and I really enjoyed the atmosphere here and spent the evening in some deep conversation over a few beers.
Day 2 in Hanoi, Vietnam
There are lots of exciting day trips and overnight trips from Hanoi, and we were sure to include one in our 3-day Hanoi itinerary!
Overnight Trip to Bai Tu Long Bay
The next morning, we woke up early, grabbed some breakfast at Hanoi Morning Hotel, and headed out for our amazing overnight cruise to Bai Tu Long Bay.
Just a few hours drive from Hanoi, Bai Tu Long Bay is a hidden gem in the northeastern part of Vietnam. Similar to Ha Long Bay, Bai Tu Long Bay is dotted with hundreds of limestone islands and islets and is known for its stunning limestone karsts, emerald waters, and secluded beaches—and, it’s well worth a visit if you have time during your trip to Hanoi!
Some other great day trips and excursions from Hanoi include:
- Ha Long Bay – a UNESCO World Heritage Site with stunning limestone islands
- Ba Vi National Park – a beautiful mountain escape with awesome hiking trails
- Sapa – a mountain town that’s known for its rice terraces and ethnic minority villages
- Ninh Binh – sometimes referred to as the “Ha Long Bay on land”, this region offers gorgeous landscapes, ancient temples, rice paddies, caves, and more, and is home to the Trang An Landscape Complex, another UNESCO World Heritage Site
Day 3 in Hanoi, Vietnam
Fast forward a day and a half, and we were back from our overnight trip to Bai Tu Long Bay and off exploring some more of Hanoi.
St. Joseph’s Cathedral
One of the things that we just had to see during our three days in Hanoi was St. Joseph’s Cathedral.
Situated in the Hoàn Kiếm District, St. Joseph’s Cathedral is one of Hanoi’s most famous landmarks and a great example of neo-Gothic architecture.
St. Joseph’s Cathedral is the oldest Roman Catholic church in Hanoi and remains an active place of worship, holding daily services. If you’re interested in a unique experience, you could consider attending a mass here.
I told Candace during our visit that the cathedral reminded me of a mini-Notre-Dame de Paris, which I saw during my visit to Versailles and Paris, France, and come to find out, that checks out! St. Joseph’s Cathedral was built in 1886 by the French colonial government using inspiration from Notre-Dame de Paris—how neat!
The architecture is stunning and features towering spires, large, arched stained-glass windows, and a grand façade, making it one of the most picturesque buildings in Hanoi.
We stayed long enough to hear the ringing of the church bells before moving on.
Dinner at Highway 4
After our stop at St. Joseph’s Cathedral, we walked over to Ngọc Sơn Temple, but unfortunately, we arrived just a bit too late, and they were no longer accepting visitors.
So, we decided to meander on looking for another air conditioning-filled spot for dinner. This is when we stumbled upon Highway 4, and I must say that their food was delicious, especially the fried Taro cakes. Not to mention, they had several Hanoi Cider flavors on the menu that we were excited to try!
Highway4 serves dishes that use traditional Vietnamese flavors, as well as a wide range of fruit, herbal, and plain liquors from the brand “Son Tinh”—Vietnam’s first internationally-awarded liquor.
Drinks at Always Café
After our ciders, we moved on to Always Café, a Harry Potter-themed café that Candace was completely obsessed with.
The café offers a cozy and enchanting Hogwarts-inspired atmosphere, complete with robes and other interactive elements. Some might even call it magical!
Don’t forget to try their signature Butterbeer. Candace was able to snag one of those, some small keepsakes, and lots of pictures dressed up in her robe!
Hanoi Weekend Night Market
Next, we checked out the Hanoi Weekend Night Market, which is open every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday evening, and runs from Hang Dao Street to the edge of the Dong Xuan Market.
This section of Hanoi’s Old Town is closed to road traffic. And, the streets come to life with stalls selling authentic street food, inexpensive, handmade jewelry, clothes, shoes, sunglasses, handicrafts, paintings, souvenirs, and more.
I love collecting ornaments and jewelry from the places I visit. My Christmas tree has ornaments from all around the world, reminding me of my adventures! And, the earrings I found here were adorable, and the seller was very grateful for my purchase.
A Broad Recommendation: Though we didn’t do this, you may want to visit one of the adjacent bars with a balcony and watch all of the hustle and bustle from the Hanoi Weekend Night Market from above.
We decided to head back early to watch some Big Bang Theory, which we’d gotten into again during our trip, and to rest up for another day of exploring and travel.
Day 4 in Hanoi, Vietnam
Our last day here was nothing short of adventurous and one filled with some of the best things to do in Hanoi!
Breakfast at the Hotel
We started our day with the complimentary breakfast at our hotel and took in the picturesque, 360-degree views of the city. This was definitely one of the benefits of staying at Hanoi Morning Hotel!
Hoa Lo Prison
Then, we made our way to the French Quarter to visit Hoa Lo Prison, a must-see Hanoi attraction for all history lovers.
Our visit was eerie and sad, as we learned about each room’s past. Hoa Lo loosely translates to “fiery furnace” or “Hell’s hole”, and the prison certainly lives up to its name.
Built by the French back in the 1800s when Vietnam was part of French Indochina, the prison was used primarily to imprison individuals involved with the Vietnamese resistance. Over time, it became overcrowded with dangerous and long-term sentenced detainees, who were malnourished, suffered from disease, and were subject to torture methods like being held in stocks and in cramped or solitary confinement cells, and to execution by guillotine.
During the Vietnam War, the prison was repurposed to detain American prisoners of war, mainly Air Force pilots that were shot down from the sky and captured from the jungle.
One of the most famous prisoners was former U.S. Senator and 2008 Republican Party presidential candidate, John McCain.
While the Vietnamese government maintains that American soldiers experienced comfortable prison conditions, there were rumors stating otherwise. Indeed, the exhibit still portrays American prisoners as well-fed and clothed, playing sports, and being taken care of at the infamous “Hanoi Hilton”, as the prison was ironically nicknamed during that time.
The entrance fee was 30,000 VND (~$1.30 USD) at the time of our visit, and it was well worth every penny. We also chose to do the audio tour for an additional fee, which I would highly recommend.
Sky Lotte Observation Deck
After our visit to Hoa Lo Prison, we had our spirits lifted at the Sky Lotte Observation Deck, another must-see attraction during your three days in Hanoi.
Located on the 65th floor of the Lotte Center Hanoi, i.e. the second-tallest building in Hanoi, Sky Lotte Observation Deck offers 360-degree views of Hanoi, some of the city’s beautiful rivers and lakes, and the surrounding area.
This was a fun spot to walk around, relax and take in the views—plus it’s air conditioned!
There are a couple of spots where you can stand on a glass floor, take pictures inside a heart or in front of some wings, and try to look down without freaking out. Rumor has it that if you spot the big red heart when looking down through the skywalk that means that Cupid has found you. How cute!
After taking a million pictures, we decided to grab a bite to eat and some wine at the sky lounge, surrounded by the epic view.
A Broad Recommendation: Try to time your visit here accordingly, as it’s one of the best spots to watch the sunset in Hanoi. The views from the Lotte Observation Deck are incredible during the day, but I can only imagine how much more incredible they are during sunset at night!
Evening Flight to Surat Thani
Afterwards, we went back to our hotel to pack our things and to get ready to head to the airport for yet another flight. Luckily, we requested a late check-out and were able to shower after our day’s adventures! We were also able to leave our luggage behind while we explored Hanoi one last time. I believe it was less than $20 USD for late check-out.
Our experience with AirAsia wasn’t quite as pleasant this time around; let’s just say that we were very lucky that Candace’s visa issues were resolved before this point! We ended up paying an additional $80 USD per bag to check our roller bags—the same bags we’d carried on for free from Thailand.
A Broad Recommendation: AirAsia weighed our bags and enforced the 7 kg limit. That’s the total weight limit for all of your suitcases and hand luggage, i.e. purses, book bags, etc., so if you have a roller bag, chances are you’ll have to check it. You can do this online before your flight, which is generally cheaper than in person. How strictly they enforce this policy varies from airport-to-airport, so totally up to you if you’d like to press your luck!
To avoid any issues, we simply paid the fee and hopped on our flight to Bangkok, excited for the next stop on our Southeast Asian adventure: Khao Sok National Park in Thailand.
Other Things to Do in Hanoi
Of course, we didn’t have enough time in Hanoi to see and do everything—isn’t that always the case?! Here are some things we’d like to check out during our next visit to Hanoi:
- Hanoi Train Street – Situated in the Hanoi Old Quarter, this is a narrow street where a train passes inches from homes and cafés, offering a thrilling experience and great photo opportunities. I can’t believe we hadn’t heard about this before our trip! Check out this Hanoi Train Street guide for all you need to know about planning your visit.
- Imperial Citadel of Thang Long – Once the political center of Vietnam for more than 1,000 years, this UNESCO World Heritage Site features ancient palaces, gates, and archaeological ruins from the Ly, Tran, and Le dynasties.
- Hoan Kiem Lake (Sword Lake) & Ngọc Sơn Temple – Situated in the heart of Hanoi, this beautiful lake is perfect for strolling, people-watching, and photography, and Ngọc Sơn Temple, which is located on a small island, is connected by a beautiful red bridge.
- Hang Ma Street – Another popular street, this one is famous for colorful paper goods, lanterns, and festival decorations. Be sure to stop by if your visit coincides with Tet (the Lunar New Year) or the Mid-Autumn Festival, when the street is full of vibrant displays.
If you have more time in Vietnam, check out this 10 Days In Vietnam: From North To South itinerary. And, don’t forget to pin this post, so you can refer back to it later. Happy travels!
XOXO Sara at Travel A-Broads
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